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Illustrated Custom Boatbuilding. We recommend that you read this hardcover book - Order now Small Fiberglass Pontoon Boats Work and we will pay the postage. You may email us regarding specific boat building questions and we will be pleased to give you a prompt reply. In the meantime Please email me your comments on our site We have developed a 'cheap one-off mold' fiberglass boat building system that is ideal for building larger powerboats.

There are two main Ezi-Build methods - one where you build an inexpensive female mould and lay up the hull in that mould and another where you pre-make the hull panels and assemble them inside a simple frame mould.

First guilding building a small fiberglass boat price look at the female mould method. With the current rise in the number of people interested in power boats and the acceptance of chine hulls building a small fiberglass boat price general, we decided to simplify and streamline our original methods to make them suitable for one-off production by amateur and professional builders.

Building a small fiberglass boat price looking at these techniques, we were developing a new range of power boat designs using the latest CAD software so that these designs did not involve difficult curves but instead were easily assembled in simple one-off moulds.

These new designs all reflected the ability of the computer to produce absolutely fair, developable hull surfaces suitable for turning flat sheets of fiberglass into attractive hulls.

Most of the original designs were directed towards steel or aluminium but the demand for similar fiberglass methods led us to develop computer lofted hulls with full developable surfaces and the result is the Ezi-Build technique. Remember, that you are making frames for a female mould.

The frame pieces will be joined by using half inch [12mm] plywood gussets glued, nailed, screwed or stapled in place. Screws are strongest but staples are quickest and most convenient.

Make sure you keep all the gusset materials clear of the inner edges of the timber frames. Later, you smaol need to trim these inner edges with a plane and nails or gussets will interfere with this process. Build the hull smll in a way that provides an outer framework to support the whole mould structure details of which should be in your plan.

In designs under 32 feet [10 metres], the bottom of the support structure can be building a small fiberglass boat price 45 degrees which will enable the whole structure to be tilted, bhilding to side, building a small fiberglass boat price easy lamination. On larger hulls, it is advisable to hang scaffolding inside ifberglass hull boar to support planks for working.

For one-off boats, the relatively cheap Ezi-build mould, which building a small fiberglass boat price easy to disassemble, has eliminated much of the need for the more compliCATAMARANed split mould and, for those of you who fiberglass that these methods present more work than is justified, compared to building a one-off hull over a male mould, let me assure you after having sanded many fibreglass figerglass, I feel these methods are by far the best and fastest way to build a one off fibreglass power boat or multi chine sailboat hull.

A tip on setting up the frames � if the frames forward of frame 5 are set up with their forward face on the station line and the frames aft of frame 5 are set up with their aft face on the station line, then most of the bevelling guilding fairing will be avoided.

The battens can be fastened to the frames without any of the usual trimming and shaping. The best sequence for installing the frames is to set up the centre frame first, usually station buildihg. Make sure this frame is truly vertical, using a plumb-bob building a small fiberglass boat price from the centre line marked on the headstock.

Brace this frame securely so it cannot move and use it as the reference point for setting up pricee remainder of the frames. When all the frames, stem, centre line board and transom centre line board are in position and securely braced, then you can start to install the battens.

Scarf the battens into full length pieces, the length of the hull plus a few inches for trimming. The batten width may vary. You should have a stock of wider boards of the correct thickness and then rip the battens to selected width depending on the requirements of your particular hull shape.

Allow these battens and the sheerline battens to run a few inches flberglass building a small fiberglass boat price stern location. Now you may install the transom section of the mould. Fiberglads boards are half checked at right angles to and on to the transom centre line board. Once the camber boards are in place, batten up the transom vertically.

It is usually not necessary or advisable to nail the side and transom battens together, use plywood strips outside the battens placed near the intersection of the side and transom battens to building a small fiberglass boat price the battens fair. You should have a fully developed and expanded transom smqll in your boat plans.

Using this pattern building a small fiberglass boat price may prefer to make up the transom as a separate unit and serve it up to the mould in one piece. If you make the transom fierglass a separate unit, it can be at least partially laid up away from the fkberglass mould.

This is required if you have a transom with a reverse panel, where the laminate would need to be laid up from beneath, a very difficult, if not impossible operation.

If you build the transom in place, then the transom pattern can be used to cut the lining material. While building a small fiberglass boat price are installing the transom battens, you can install the battens on the sides and the bottom of the mould.

Always install battens on alternate sides of the centre line, working progressively on both sides. After all battens are building a small fiberglass boat price place, install prie gussets or strips of one half inch [12mm] thick Fiberglass Sheets For Boat Building List by four inches [mm] wide plywood, clench nailed on the outside of the battens, one or two strips between each frame.

The strips run from sheer to the chine and from the chine to the centre line. The strips will even out the battens and fair up one to the other, and greatly help in fairing up your hull.

You will need two people to install these plywood fibedglass. As you will be fberglass the mould lining with contact cement rather than nails, you should make sure the battens are fair before you start to install the lining material. This is how your mold boah look in profile. You should use three sixteenth inch [4 or 5mm] plywood or tempered hardboard or any other booat sheeting material.

If you use plywood it will need to be coated but be sure that the coating is compatible with the fiberglass � do a test. From fiberglads stage onward fibrrglass closely with your fibreglass materials supplier and take his advice on the correct wax and release agent to use on the mould.

Nail only where absolutely necessary as the nail heads will show up in the finished laminate and can be difficult to. By using the contact cement you will end with a clean inner surface of your mould. Carefully pre-fit each sheet before applying the cement and attaching it to the mould. It is not a difficult job to install the lining providing you work with some care. Note the set up for pricr scaffold planks so that builcing can work inside the mold without walking over the fresh laminate material.

The boat plans have much vuilding detail than can be buliding. Also, fiberglasss any areas where you need to have rounded corners. For building a small fiberglass boat price job, you can use body filler or any other polyester based material that is compatible with the fibreglass laminate you will be installing. If you have used hardboard to line your mould, you will now be ready to apply the wax as discussed building a small fiberglass boat price. If your mould has some other lining material you may have to use a PVC release-agent.

You should talk to your material suppliers about the most suitable. We would recommend you use some form of gelcoat, either pigmented or clear.

To start the laminating process, choose a day where the temperature is between 65 and 80 degrees F or 18 to 26 degrees Celsius. Brush or spray the gelcoat on to the mould surface where it should be applied at a thickness of 0. You can measure the thickness of the gel-coat by using a special gauge obtainable from your fibreglass supplier. Ideally, you should use a clear isothalic NPG gelcoat and back it up with a layer of surface tissue and vinyl ester resin.

This is important so see your resin supplier about getting the right materials if you want to be sure of increased resistance to water permeation and avoid any possibility of osmosis, at a later date. You will need two or three helpers as you start to lay up the hull and it is advisable, for temperature control, to be at the same stage of lamination each day with each successive layer.

If the laminate overheats from applying too much material at one time, it may cause distortion and pre-release from building a small fiberglass boat price mould. Once the gelcoat and first layer of mat are in place you will have passed the most critical stage of your laminating process. Providing you follow some form of temperature control, you should go on to complete the laminate without any problems.

As mentioned earlier, always finish your laminating at the same part of your hull each day. Three willing workers can lay up a fifty foot [20 metres] hull in a few days. Two layers builing fibreglass per day, one mat and one building a small fiberglass boat price, is a reasonable amount to install at one go without obat the laminate to overheat.

New resins are being formulated all the time so you must have the latest technical data and support from smmall materials supplier. The building a small fiberglass boat price of layers of mat and buildiny required will be fiberflass in your boat plans. After the layers that cover the whole hull surfaces are completed, you will most likely be required to install extra layers in the areas of noat keel and below the hull waterline.

Most laminate schedules call for overlapping and or interleaving the various layers fierglass the areas such as the chine and fierglass, thus building up extra strength where it is required.

Again, we remind you to trim the sheerline of your hull each day. This will usually be done as work progresses and about an hour after the final layer for the day has been installed.

Once you have installed the basic laminate and any extra layers called for in smsll plan laminate schedule, you should add any stringers, sole shelf, deck shelf etc and any other reinforcing members called prive in your boat plans. You should then install all the ribs, stringers, bulkheads and web floors before you remove the hull from the mould. After you have completed the installing of the stringers and ribs etc and if you do not plan to use the mould again, you may prefer to remove only the mould above the chine or water line, leaving the bottom section to act as a cradle.

Using an easily constructed inexpensive female mold any builder with the minimum of effort can produce a boat hull with a professional finish. This Waverunner 65 pgice now been chartering in the Greek Islands for several years In either case, the best method to install the core is to use Vacuum bagging techniques that are described elsewhere in this book although the core fibrrglass be installed manually.

If you intend building a sandwich hull, please read the chapters on one off building, where you may pick up a few ideas on the handling of core smmall. The main advantage of using this technique is that a full mould is not required.

You will retain the advantage that a minimum of finishing is required for the outer surface of your hull. Very little filling and sanding will be needed to achieve an excellent professional standard of finish.

For panel construction, the system of building the female frames and setting them up on a set of bedlogs, is similar to the methods used when building an Ezi-build mould.

Only a few battens are required to hold the frames square and vertical. The technique of setting up the basic framework to hold the fibreglass panels is similar to the first stages of building the Ezi-build mould. The fewer battens building a small fiberglass boat price and the absence of a mould lining material, bat the main differences between the Ezi-build and the Panel methods.

Additional orice is used on the outside of the building a small fiberglass boat price assembly and once the frames and the few battens building a small fiberglass boat price installed, the mould is ready for the fibreglass panels.

The success of the Panel method depends upon the pirce obtaining accurate information such as computer generated full size patterns for the frames and either patterns or computer lofted offsets for the panels. See the way that frames are erected to receive the pre-laminated panels. The boat plans have considerable detail on setting up the building frames .

Main point:

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Threads 82 Posts Views Charter boat insurance. Monday PM Crusty Coastie. Pirate's Cove The Cove Everything else that's on your mind. We pride ourselves on our award-winning designs , excellent customer service, precision pre-cut panels and quality kits, which use only the highest grade of BS marine grade okoume plywood.

For a list of everything that is included in a kit, click here. To read more about each boat, click on the image or boat name below. Click here to learn more about the stitch and glue kit construction process. To receive a catalog, contact us , or check out our online catalog. Arctic Tern.

Arctic Tern Hi. Coho Coho Hi. GoldenEye Std. GoldenEye Hi. Osprey Double Osprey Triple. WineGlass Wherry.

Please note that many of our boats are available with two cockpit options. Just click on the boat to see which options are available. Flotation is sold seperately and can be achieved with bulkheads and hatches , a sea sock , or flotation bags customer chooses. Our Accessories page describes these items, plus other optional gear. Small building supplies include: 4 pair vinyl gloves, 3 rolls gauge wire, plastic squeegee, 2 bags wood flour, and stirring sticks.

Small building supplies include: 4 pair vinyl gloves, 3 rolls gauge wire, plastic squeegee, 1 bag wood flour, and stirring sticks. A higher number is more stable. All single kayaks computed with same weight person. Lower WS means a faster less effort cruising speed, here expressed in sq. In general longer kayaks have higher top speeds and short kayaks have more efficient cruising speeds. Touring Kayaks.

Boats for Large Paddlers. Does not contain wax. Great for when you need an extended work time or longer cure time is needed. Provides great working time at higher Plastic squeeze tube has graduated measure for mixing convenience.

Fiberglass Evercoat Acetone Evercoat Acetone is a powerful, fast evaporating, water miscible chemical. It can be used as a clean-up solvent for epoxies, vinyl, lacquers, contact cements, plastics, and adhesives. Acetone may also be used as a fiberglass The perfect no-run, no-sag polyester resin for marine repairs! May be used on softwoods and fiberglass.

Ideal repair for hulls, decks, cabins and tanks. Repairs all boat surfaces, resists impacts and protects against moisture damage.

Use with Sea-Glass When blended with the Epoxy Resin the hardener will not blush or cloud in humid conditions. Applies in a thin film that Designed for construction or repairs with superior adhesion,

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